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April 29, 2009

Investigating The Usual Suspects When Your Car Won’t Start

Filed under: Car Info — Tags: , , , , — admin @ 1:51 pm

Investigating The Usual Suspects When Your Car Won’t Start

Each of us has gone through the experience of discovering our vehicle won’t start. We climb behind the wheel, turn the key, and feel the creeping sensation of dread as the engine refuses to roar to life. Usually, it happens when we’re in a rush. Even more discouraging than losing your main means of transportation is not knowing what is causing the problem. Is it the battery? The starter? The ignition switch?

Plenty of things can go wrong under your car’s hood which will immobilize it. The trick is knowing how to narrow down the culprit so you can either fix the problem or have your mechanic do it for you. Below, we’ll explore common reasons why your vehicle won’t start.

When The Engine Doesn’t Crank

If you turn the key and your engine fails to turn over, the problem is usually located in the ignition system, starter, or the battery. If your battery is the source of the issue, it may be because of low voltage or a bad connection between the poles and terminals. A low voltage problem can usually be fixed by jump starting your car and driving it for twenty minutes.

If your vehicle’s starter is at fault, check the wires first. If they’re clean and tight, the relay or solenoid may be bad. Otherwise, you may need to replace the entire starter. If your battery and starter are fine (your mechanic can test them for you), the problem is likely in the ignition system.

When The Engine Does Crank

If the engine turns over when you turn the key in the ignition, but it doesn’t actually fire, the cause is a lack of spark, a lack of gas, or lack of sufficient compression. The fact that your engine is turning means that your battery is delivering voltage and your starter is being triggered.

You can purchase a spark testing device from most auto supply shops. Assuming there’s fuel in your gas tank, check to see whether your fuel pump is working properly. The vehicles which are rolling off the automakers’ floors today come equipped with fuel injection systems. While they’re more precise, they’re also more sensitive to pressure variances. If there’s a problem with the fuel pressure, the cause will likely be the fuel pump.

To check the compression level, you’ll need to have access to a special testing device. Most mechanics have them readily available (for their use, not yours), so this test may best be left to your local repair garage. The mechanic will probably remove the spark plugs in order to check all of the cylinders.

As noted above, some issues are easily solved. Others will require help from your auto technician. The next time you’re stranded because your car won’t start, you’ll be better prepared to identify the cause.

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April 13, 2009

Turn Signals: Your Car’s Overlooked Alert System

Filed under: Car Info — Tags: , , , , — admin @ 11:35 am

Turn Signals: Your Car’s Overlooked Alert System

Turn signals are an integral component of any automobile, able to alert other drivers of your intent and ultimately prevent collisions, injuries, and fatalities. However, these devices are sorely unappreciated and what may seem like a simple lever which activates a flashing light is actually a complicated mechanism.

In this article, I’ll explain the mechanics behind your car’s indicator lights. We’ll explore what is happening behind the scenes that causes them to activate. You’ll also learn how they’re disengaged by turning your steering wheel.

The Circuitry Behind The Lights

It’s important to note that the circuit which controls your vehicle’s indicators is only operational when your car is turned on. The electrical power flows to the turn signal flasher which then directs the current to either the right or left indicator depending upon the position of the signal stalk.

When the current is flowing, the thermal flasher generates the light pulses via heat expansion. The thermal flasher is composed of the electrical contact that feeds electricity to the wire, a piece of curved spring steel. It also feeds electricity to a secondary piece of spring steel wrapped in a resistive wire. Initially, the current flows through the secondary wire wrapped with the resistive wire which proceeds to heat up and expand, eventually touching the contact.

Once it is connected to the contact point, the light is triggered and the resistive wire begins to cool down. With the secondary spring cool, it begins to contract, pulling and separating the connection and thereby disengaging the lights.

How They Are Reset

When the turn indicators are activated, a small plastic tab engages with the main steering column via a notched hub. This notched hub (connected to the steering wheel) secures the plastic tab until the wheel is turned. When the steering wheel is rotated, the plastic tab is continuously bumped in one direction until you turn in the opposite direction to compensate. When the steering is reversed, the tab is forced out of its position and the turn-signal stalk returns to normal.

Side Mirror Signals

Unfortunately, turn indicators are fallible; they can malfunction if the circuit dies or the electric current is severed from the wires. For this reason, many car companies have started using LED lights embedded in the side mirrors. These systems use LEDs that are arranged in an arrow formation and are placed behind the mirror so your sight isn’t impaired when using them.

These LED lights are also useful because they are able to light up much faster than a traditional incandescent bulb. This may seem insignificant at slow speeds, but when traveling on the freeway, a few tenths of a second can literally mean the difference between life and death.

Find more car tips at Cars Like Us and Car Part Plus

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April 9, 2009

How Your Car’s Air Conditioner Works

Filed under: Car Info — Tags: , , — admin @ 12:15 pm

How Your Car’s Air Conditioner Works

Once an expensive luxury for the well-heeled, air conditioning is now a commonplace comfort in nearly all types of vehicles. A car’s A/C unit cools and dehumidifies air which enters the cabin. The first systems were relatively simple and easy to repair, but the introduction of computerized temperature control and other assembly modifications has changed that. Today’s do-it-yourself auto enthusiasts are rarely able to repair the units.

Below, we’ll take a brief tour through your vehicle’s A/C unit. We’ll explore the components that work together as well as the refrigerant which cools the air. The information I’ll provide is merely a glimpse. While you won’t be able to repair your vehicle’s A/C, you will at least be informed when you visit your mechanic.

How The A/C’s Components Work Together

The heart of your car’s A/C system is the compressor, a belt-driven pump that compresses and moves the refrigerant. A refrigerant is a chemical compound that is used to transfer heat, during which it undergoes a phase change from gas to liquid and vice versa.

Along with the compressor, the condenser is necessary for heat dissipation. As the refrigerant leaves the compressor, the heat absorbed from the cabin causes it to expand into a gas. Traveling along the condenser coils, the fluid proceeds to change back into a liquid. Because a condenser requires maximum air flow to enable heat dissipation, the part is often mounted in front of the radiator (though its position can vary). In addition to the mounting point, some vehicles have incorporated a cooling fan as well.

The evaporator also plays an important role in your vehicle’s air conditioner. This device removes heat from the inside of your car and provides a small degree of dehumidification. The evaporator assembly has an array of aluminum fins that allow water contained within the air to condense. When the water condenses, pollen, dust, and other particulates are trapped by the droplets which are then drained off and released under the car.

Refrigerant Maintenance

When the first air conditioning units were introduced, the refrigerant R-12 was used. Otherwise known as Freon, this odorless, colorless chlorofluorocarbon was discovered to damage the ozone layer. Since the 1990s, most Freon applications have been phased out due to government regulation.

In the event of an air conditioner malfunction on an older car, the fluid may have to be replaced with an environmentally-friendly alternative. Currently, this means retrofitting the old system for R-134a, a refrigerant that won’t harm the ozone layer. However, this new fluid will have a higher operating pressure and will therefore require new, stronger parts. In some cases, parts may not necessarily have to be replaced depending on the fluid change.

If you notice that your car’s A/C system isn’t cooling the cabin as quickly or effectively as it used to, ask your mechanic to run a test. It’s likely that the refrigerant needs to be replenished. That said, if your A/C is failing, plan to spend at least $200.

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An Exploration Of Car Batteries And Proper Maintenance

Filed under: Car Info — Tags: , , — admin @ 12:02 pm

An Exploration Of Car Batteries And Proper Maintenance

Without batteries, today’s vehicles would be useless. The part may seem inconspicuous, but it plays a key role in your vehicle’s charging system. It is made up from a collection of lead-acid cells which provide power to the ignition system and other parts of the electrical assembly.

A standard battery provides a 12-volt charge through a connection of six cells in a series. The plates are made of lead and the electrolyte solution is roughly 65% water and 35% sulfuric acid. As the reaction progresses and electricity is generated, the surface of the plates transforms into lead sulfate. When recharged, the lead sulfate turns back to lead and lead oxide. Below, I’ll describe the two primary types of batteries and explain how to properly maintain them.

Types Of Batteries

The two main battery types are shallow cycle and deep cycle. Shallow cycle units are designed to create the large bursts of power needed for your engine’s ignition. While these batteries are continuously charged by the alternator when a car is running, a shallow cycle or “starting” unit is meant to undergo a small amount of discharge. For this reason, overexerting and draining the device can shorten its lifespan and cost more in the long run.

Deep cycle batteries, on the other hand, are intended to provide power for extended periods of time. In addition, they are used to store energy, similar to the way a residential solar panel system stores energy for a home. Other applications include trolling motors and electric vehicles such as golf carts.

Proper Care And Maintenance

With any type of battery, proper maintenance is important in order to lengthen its useful life. The first step in the maintenance process is to check the fluid levels and refill them, if necessary. During electrolysis, water is lost and must be replaced. If the unit is newer, the manufacturer may have added extra in order to compensate for this phenomenon over its useful life.

If you’re planning to store a battery, special care must be taken to prevent draining. It must be fully charged and stored in a cool dry environment. It must also be stored upright; if the unit is tipped, the electrolyte will leak out. This problem can be overcome by the use of an absorbent glass mat (AGM) or gel design. In the case of an AGM layout, a panel of fine glass fibers is immersed in electrolyte until the proper amount has been absorbed. The mats are then left flat or are spun into spirals and loaded into the enclosure with the lead.

In gel designs, the electrolyte is mixed with a binder in order to immobilize the mass. The main advantage of this process is the resilient nature of the resulting product: the units are more resistant to shock, vibration, and temperature extremes.

Most motorists won’t have reason to store their car batteries; they’ll be in use under the hood. That said, follow the tips I’ve given above to store them properly if the need arises.

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